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When assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The honour has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble shop earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.